these are some things I've learned and things are uniquely Philippines that I've seen during the year we've been living here because it is true... "it's more fun in the Philippines!"
Weather:
It is hot, but surprisingly we've had cool, windy days and nights also. Most days, I am in a t-shirt and pair of comfortable shorts, but there have been some days I wore sweatpants with a thin long-sleeve shirt. Other nights, I've worn jeans with a hoodie. At night, I usually have my pajama pants since hubby and I keep the air-conditioner on all night.
There's plenty of rain during the rainy season, lots of roads even get flooded so many businesses will close down. With the pouring rain come thunder and lightning also at times. It rains mostly from end of Sept to end of January so if you're a person that doesn't like rain, plan your Philippines trip accordingly.
It is hot, but surprisingly we've had cool, windy days and nights also. Most days, I am in a t-shirt and pair of comfortable shorts, but there have been some days I wore sweatpants with a thin long-sleeve shirt. Other nights, I've worn jeans with a hoodie. At night, I usually have my pajama pants since hubby and I keep the air-conditioner on all night.
There's plenty of rain during the rainy season, lots of roads even get flooded so many businesses will close down. With the pouring rain come thunder and lightning also at times. It rains mostly from end of Sept to end of January so if you're a person that doesn't like rain, plan your Philippines trip accordingly.
Flood on the road on our way to church, Harvesters Baptist Church in Santa Rosa, Laguna
Food/Drinks:
Well, there's a lot of Filipino Food!! Chicken/pork adobo, pancit, sisig, grilled tilapia, indian mango with alamang, menudo, afritada, shrimp sinigang; are just some of my favorites. Many of these dishes can simply be paired up with a few scoops of white rice and breakfast, lunch or dinner is set!
Food/Drinks:
Well, there's a lot of Filipino Food!! Chicken/pork adobo, pancit, sisig, grilled tilapia, indian mango with alamang, menudo, afritada, shrimp sinigang; are just some of my favorites. Many of these dishes can simply be paired up with a few scoops of white rice and breakfast, lunch or dinner is set!
Other types of food are also available, there are many fast food places nearby; McDonald's, Wendy's, Burger King, KFC, Jollibee, etc; and all serves rice... yes, rice. I have yet to find a Taco Bell... there have been tiimes I craved a supreme taco and a chicken chalupa supreme. There are a lot of affordable meals at the fast food restaurants under 100 pesos, but make sure you have some back-up options for food you want to order because often times, many places have been out of 2 or more things. For example, a few weeks ago, we went to Jollibee, two Jollibees actually and both were out of spaghetti and french fries. Another time, Chowking was out of wonton soup and chorizo. McDonald's has been well-stocked and it even sells fried chicken with rice all day! If street foods are your thing, there are plenty like bbq, lugaw (rice soup), isaw (chicken intestine), siopao, and ready to eat ulam (entrΓ©es), just to name a few.
I also still in-search for a wonderful sushi place; I've tried a few Japanese restaurants, but haven't lived up to the ones I've had back in San Francisco. Back in the States, hubby and I were eating sushi at least once a week, for months now I've craved for nigiri, but haven't fulfilled that craving yet. Hoping to get some sushi really soon though.
Most people buy their groceries at the Open/wet Market especially for fresh veggies, fruits, poultry, fish, and meats because it's cheaper than grocery stores and there's much more variety of cuts. The family usually just buy fish and meats at the wet market; vegetables and fruits at a nearby farm and the rest at the nearby grocery stores, either Walter Mart, Save More, Pure Gold Jr or Shopwise. The grocery stores carry most ingredients needed for everyday use. There are some things I wish the grocery stores had in stock like gravy and stuffing since PeeJay likes it. While my mother in law was in the Philippines, she had a hard time looking for fresh cow's milk in gallons; all milk here are usually powder-based or in carton pints that's un-refrigerated imported from New Zealand.
A while back, we've discovered S&R, it's like a Sam's/Costco, so we make a trip to Alabang monthly to buy imported things in bulk like variety of SPAM, powdered milk, fresh salad mix, various cheeses, cookies and whatever else we see and want.
Coffee in households are not freshly brewed, it's rare to have a coffee maker. Many just use the instant coffee, usually sachets that's called 3-in-1 (which I prefer) which already has coffee, cream and sugar for only 6 pesos each. Juices are also pretty popular especially with the kiddos. The boys like the different Zesto, but recently we've been making big batches of powdered juices like Tang to keep in the fridge since it's less expensive. Water is filtered using a Britta pitcher and most of the water we drink at home is purified water which gets delivered daily in huge gallons for 30 pesos each.
Shower/Bath:
PeeJay and Liam take baths... warm baths. A kettle of hot water is poured into the bucket of some cold water, then tabo (water dipper) is used to rinse the boys. Other days, the boys spend their day outside in the kiddie blow-up pool.
The rest of us take cold showers. Yes, cold. I can't even remember the feeling of taking a warm/hot shower anymore since it has been so long since I've experience it. Actually, I take it back, I remember the exact day, it was Valentine's Day, a hotel in Tagaytay was the last time I've had a hot shower. Most days, I don't mind the cold water because it really helps cool me down during the day and helps me sleep better at night. It's not unusual to take 2 or more showers a day. If you really can't stand the cold water, there is a device you can purchase that you can drop into the bucket filled with cold water to warm it up. We had that device in our bathroom, but I had it removed because I really didn't want the risk of getting electrocuted.
When Patrick and I are in the mood, we take the kids to the swimming pool which everyone always have a great time even though we only swim for an hour.
Bugs/Insects/Animals:
Everywhere. Where you say? Everywhere. There are just no avoiding it, ants and flies are everywhere; inside and outside the house. Lizards, which come out mostly at night hang out at the ceiling/walls and likes to make a "tick, tick, tick" noise. Cockroaches and spiders are ginormous - makes PeeJay scream so loud it can be heard from a block away. I dislike mosquitos and mosquitos is one of the reason I do not hang around outside much. Every time, the boys go outside, they need to be slathered with Off-Lotion so that the mosquitos will avoid biting them. Hundreds of black centipedes crawl around outside which Liam has been an expert in killing by stepping on it with his slippers. Frogs make their way in plants near the front door and croaks in unison after the rain. Chickens roam the neighborhood freely and roosters "cock-a-doodle-dos" at random hour of the day/night. The female cats are always pregnant, but most of the kittens never make it to adulthood. When we arrived here in the Philippines, we had 9 cats and 5 kittens. Currently, there are 3 cats (one is pregnant) and no kittens. Almost all the dogs here in our gated community/neighborhood are either on leashes or cages, but there are plenty of dogs outside on the streets, even on the "freeway" (SLEX) sometimes.
Karaoke:
All Filipinos like to sing. Most not very good singers (like me), but nonetheless enjoy getting in front of everyone to sing their heart out on the karaoke. Karaoke is present at all special events including birthdays, reunions, and even someone's death is like a party because at most wakes I've seen, people are karaoke-ing.
Transportations/Traffic/Driving Regulations:
My parents own a van and a car so we're pretty lucky. At times when Patrick needs to do auditions/tapping in Makati/Manila/Quezon City area, we're able to borrow the van. The family also has an on-call driver, which we pay 500 pesos/day with additional 100-200 pesos for food depending on how long the trip is. When Patrick's goes to the gym on the next town over, he usually uses the electric scooter I purchased when we first arrived in the Philippines. The scooter has been very convenient since it doesn't require a registration or license to drive around.
When we don't want to deal with traffic or parking and we're only headed to the nearby mall, Patrick and I will take PeeJay/Liam on the Jeepney. It only cost 8.50 pesos for each of us and PeeJay/Liam is free since he's on our lap. A Jeepney can carry 20-26 passengers depending on how long it is. There are some designated stops, but a passenger can say, "para" anytime to get off practically anywhere. Riding a tricycle is also another way to get from places; cost a bit more than a Jeepney and Patrick seem to be too big to fit comfortably inside it. There's also a thing called a "padyak" which is a bicycle with a sidecar attached to it. The fee for those things are similar to the tricycles. Surprisingly, many people also walk, but it's so hot out that I prefer not to.
My parents own a van and a car so we're pretty lucky. At times when Patrick needs to do auditions/tapping in Makati/Manila/Quezon City area, we're able to borrow the van. The family also has an on-call driver, which we pay 500 pesos/day with additional 100-200 pesos for food depending on how long the trip is. When Patrick's goes to the gym on the next town over, he usually uses the electric scooter I purchased when we first arrived in the Philippines. The scooter has been very convenient since it doesn't require a registration or license to drive around.
When we don't want to deal with traffic or parking and we're only headed to the nearby mall, Patrick and I will take PeeJay/Liam on the Jeepney. It only cost 8.50 pesos for each of us and PeeJay/Liam is free since he's on our lap. A Jeepney can carry 20-26 passengers depending on how long it is. There are some designated stops, but a passenger can say, "para" anytime to get off practically anywhere. Riding a tricycle is also another way to get from places; cost a bit more than a Jeepney and Patrick seem to be too big to fit comfortably inside it. There's also a thing called a "padyak" which is a bicycle with a sidecar attached to it. The fee for those things are similar to the tricycles. Surprisingly, many people also walk, but it's so hot out that I prefer not to.
Traffic is not as bad as a remember when I use to visit the Philippines. The reason may be that when we need to get to the city, we plan and give ourselves a few hours to arrive at our destinations. Also, we've learned to avoid traffic hours during the morning and later in the day when everyone is going to and from work. Rush hour traffic is expected and people just need to plan better and give themselves plenty of time to travel.
There are traffic rules, but I can't say that every driver follows them. Our driver has gotten pulled over a few times in the past for either running a red light, using a bus only lane, and not wearing a seat belt. At all of those times, our driver paid his way out of a ticket, 50 pesos, 100 pesos and 220 pesos; the cost of the violation just depends on how much the arresting officer is willing to accept at that point. Many times, traffic lights are useless because drivers do not obey it and probably the same reason why I have never seen a stop sign anywhere. Mileage or how far you are to your destination is not usually clear; there may be a sign for it, but it won't tell you specifically how far you are from it, which can be frustrating because the sign can be 1, 9, or 20 kilometers from the actual place you are trying to get to.
Remember that there is no specific "passing lane" while driving because you can pass on the left or right. And turn signals are optional. Parking lots are usually filled with parking attendants that stand around helping guide drivers to their specific parking spot. 5 pesos is usually what we give to the parking attendant who's helped us when leaving because parking is usually free.
The Department of Motor Vehicle here is a joke. I mean: it explains why so many people are such inconsiderately bad at driving. The actual driving test is one big oval route with a bridge and speed bumps; all left turns. If you pay enough money for the written test, the right answers will already be filled-out for you!
Television/Movies:
We shipped our 42-inch flatscreen HD television from the states prior to our move here in the Philippines. By the time we arrived, cable has already been installed with various channel options like National Geographic, HBO, Cartoon Network and Disney Jr. I do miss the Food Network, but we've been lucky to have watched new episodes of "The Walking Dead" at the same time it aired in the US last season. Our current cable provider is Cignal, there are others like Sky Cable, that we're not able to subscribe to due to our location.
The hubby and I try to see a movie in theaters at least once in 2-3 months for fun. A ticket costs180 pesos and for a 3-D movie, it's 300 pesos per ticket. It is common occurrence to see babies and very young children at the theaters. I couldn't believe there were infants at the "Godzilla" screening.
DVDs are available everywhere; you can get 3 for 100 pesos or even 4 if you know how to barter. The TV series are 40 pesos per season which I usually get to catch up on TV shows from the States. The DVD copies are usually pretty clear and watchable with occasional background noise of people laughing, Spanish subtitles only and even a "theater goers" head at times. Be warned that the DVD stands get raided at random times, but don't worry, the stands are restocked with DVDs in less than 24-hours.
Internet/Cell Phones:
We have internet, a wi-fi network set up at home. We pay for a 2Mbps speed, but we're running on .54Mpbs or less most of the time. Often times we have intermittent internet connections especially towards the end of the month. Unlimited internet usage is what we SHOULD have, but it becomes limited once we reach our data cap for the month and the speed is throttled. Calling Smart Bro's costumer service for the internet is always a long, frustrating task. When solutions given over the phone doesn't solve the internet connection problem, I usually unplug the cables (this way, the costumer service representative cannot discover a signal from the internet) and this forces Smart Bro to send one of their technician over to fix the problem without any questions ask. There are many Internet cafes, about 20 pesos per hour.
Pilipinos sends a lot of text messages, rarely uses their cell phones to make a voice call. It because texting is much cheaper compared to a phone call (1 peso vs 8 peosos). Many also are not on calling plan. Pre-paid is the way to go by buying LOAD via card (100, 300, 500 pesos) or E-LOAD from a nearby sari-sari store. There's also a thing called Pasa-LOAD, a friend can share 1-500 pesos of their load to you. Cellular data costs 5 pesos/15 minutes of internet browsing.
There are traffic rules, but I can't say that every driver follows them. Our driver has gotten pulled over a few times in the past for either running a red light, using a bus only lane, and not wearing a seat belt. At all of those times, our driver paid his way out of a ticket, 50 pesos, 100 pesos and 220 pesos; the cost of the violation just depends on how much the arresting officer is willing to accept at that point. Many times, traffic lights are useless because drivers do not obey it and probably the same reason why I have never seen a stop sign anywhere. Mileage or how far you are to your destination is not usually clear; there may be a sign for it, but it won't tell you specifically how far you are from it, which can be frustrating because the sign can be 1, 9, or 20 kilometers from the actual place you are trying to get to.
Remember that there is no specific "passing lane" while driving because you can pass on the left or right. And turn signals are optional. Parking lots are usually filled with parking attendants that stand around helping guide drivers to their specific parking spot. 5 pesos is usually what we give to the parking attendant who's helped us when leaving because parking is usually free.
The Department of Motor Vehicle here is a joke. I mean: it explains why so many people are such inconsiderately bad at driving. The actual driving test is one big oval route with a bridge and speed bumps; all left turns. If you pay enough money for the written test, the right answers will already be filled-out for you!
Television/Movies:
We shipped our 42-inch flatscreen HD television from the states prior to our move here in the Philippines. By the time we arrived, cable has already been installed with various channel options like National Geographic, HBO, Cartoon Network and Disney Jr. I do miss the Food Network, but we've been lucky to have watched new episodes of "The Walking Dead" at the same time it aired in the US last season. Our current cable provider is Cignal, there are others like Sky Cable, that we're not able to subscribe to due to our location.
The hubby and I try to see a movie in theaters at least once in 2-3 months for fun. A ticket costs180 pesos and for a 3-D movie, it's 300 pesos per ticket. It is common occurrence to see babies and very young children at the theaters. I couldn't believe there were infants at the "Godzilla" screening.
DVDs are available everywhere; you can get 3 for 100 pesos or even 4 if you know how to barter. The TV series are 40 pesos per season which I usually get to catch up on TV shows from the States. The DVD copies are usually pretty clear and watchable with occasional background noise of people laughing, Spanish subtitles only and even a "theater goers" head at times. Be warned that the DVD stands get raided at random times, but don't worry, the stands are restocked with DVDs in less than 24-hours.
Internet/Cell Phones:
We have internet, a wi-fi network set up at home. We pay for a 2Mbps speed, but we're running on .54Mpbs or less most of the time. Often times we have intermittent internet connections especially towards the end of the month. Unlimited internet usage is what we SHOULD have, but it becomes limited once we reach our data cap for the month and the speed is throttled. Calling Smart Bro's costumer service for the internet is always a long, frustrating task. When solutions given over the phone doesn't solve the internet connection problem, I usually unplug the cables (this way, the costumer service representative cannot discover a signal from the internet) and this forces Smart Bro to send one of their technician over to fix the problem without any questions ask. There are many Internet cafes, about 20 pesos per hour.
Pilipinos sends a lot of text messages, rarely uses their cell phones to make a voice call. It because texting is much cheaper compared to a phone call (1 peso vs 8 peosos). Many also are not on calling plan. Pre-paid is the way to go by buying LOAD via card (100, 300, 500 pesos) or E-LOAD from a nearby sari-sari store. There's also a thing called Pasa-LOAD, a friend can share 1-500 pesos of their load to you. Cellular data costs 5 pesos/15 minutes of internet browsing.
QUICK TIPS:
1. Have Patience: It seems like EVERYTHING takes twice as long especially at government offices because not everybody is properly trained for their specific job. The most inefficient way is what we usually encounter here in the Philippines, life would be so much easier if things are planned out ahead of time accordingly. I think it's because many Pilipinos have a "Bahal Na" attitude (whatever happens, happens)!
2. Everyone seem to owe somebody money: Rule of thumb, don't let anyone borrow money unless it's a life or dealth situation.
3. Expect to pay a HIGH electricity bill: It seems like it's more expensive here than in the US, with air conditioners in every bedroom, a couple of fans, televisions, microwave, mini toaster oven and other electronics.
4. Umbrella is a MUST HAVE: Weather it's raining or not, bring an umbrella with you all the time. An umbrella is a great tool that can provide shade, too on sunny days!
5. There are LOTS of knock-off things for sale for a quarter of the price of its original counterparts: For cheaper things in bulk, hit up Divisoria or Baklaran (a place where you can literally find/buy anything you want). Never settle for the final price, always "tawad", to get the lowest price.
6. A Real Hamburger is rare to find: Most burgers are made with Salisbury steaks.
7. If you're a foreigner, expect to be the center of attention ALL THE TIME: And if you're a white guy, you're name is "Joe" ... learn to accept that because that's the name you'll be called by strangers. Also, learn some useful phrases like, "nakakaintindi ako ng Tagalog" to quiet the whispering around you in public.
8. Religion is big in the Philippines: Mom's side is all Catholic while Dad's siblings and their families are Iglesia Ni Cristo. I grew up Catholic until I met my husband. We started attending Harvesters Baptist Church in Santa Rosa, Laguna when we arrived in the Philippines. The morning service can last up to 3 hours (sans Sunday school), so bring plenty of snacks for the kiddos.
9. People expect that you're rich, just because you're from the States or a Balikbayan.
10. Pilipinos are one of the nicest people you will ever meet because the culture is very family-oriented.
(This is one of the main reason why Patrick and I decided to move to the Philippines, to instill the value of how important family is to our children)
*The 1Million Pesos Question: π²
Will we ever move back to America?
We have another year to go before we seriously need to think about this question. At the moment, we are all happy living in the Philippines and enjoying our life here. PeeJay is doing so well at school and learning so much! And he and Liam are both communicating in Tagalog and English. Patrick has had many auditions as an actor and is learning "the way things work" here in that profession. I am loving the opportunity to be a "stay-at-home mom" and being with PeeJay and Liam as much as possible, watching them grow. It does "take a village to raise a child" and I'm glad/thankful Patrick and I have "a village" of our own here in the Philippines because of my parents, aunties, uncles, cousins and others always willing to provide the boys love and care.
I miss family and friends in the US, so Patrick and I at least need to look into vacationing/visiting next year perhaps... we'll see ✈️!